Improvement in machines for sewing boots and shoes



2 Sheets-Sheet 1. C. DANCEL.

MACHINE Non SEWING BooTs AND sNoEs. No. 190,709.

Patented May15,1877

N'PEIERS, PHOTO-LlTHQGRAPHER. WASHINGTON, D C

Z Sheets-Sheet 2.

Patented Mayl, 1877.

L N/E La 1f. S/@agg Mr] MMM@ WM ".PETERS. PHOTO-UTHOGRAFHER. WASHINGTON.D, C.

UNITED STATES PATENT @Errea CHRISTIAN DANCEL, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN MACHINES FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 190,709, dated May 15,1877; application tiled November 27, 1876.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, CHRISTIAN DANGEL, of thecity, county, and State of New York, have invented an Improvement inSewing-Machin es for Boots and Shoes, of which the following is aspecification:

This invention relates to sewing-machines for sewing what are known vasturned shoes, or for sewing welts to uppers and inner soles for weltedwork.

In this class of work the edge of the upper or the upper and welt aresewed to a lip-like portion, extending aboutthe sole near its edge, suchlip being that portion of the substance of the sole left between theinner channel and the outer edge or channel of the sole. This lip issometimes called the between substance.

In sewing a heavy upper to the lip of a poor or spongy insole, thestitch is liable to pull through or tear away from and destroy the lip,the only portion to which the upper can be sewed, and so, when the stockis very close and dry, the lip is liable to be broken away bythe stitch.

In this invention, this difficulty is overcome by the use of alip-holder, a device similar to an awl-point, and adapted to penetratethe lip in the direction of the thickness of the sole. This lip-holderenters the lip just after the feed takes place and before the needlepasses through the lip, the needle entering the lip close to thelip-holder, and the latter holding the lip until the needle recedes anddraws its loop taut, thereby preventing the portion of the lip inclosedby the thread forming the stitch from becoming torn or destroyed bydrawing the stitch taut. The lip-holder pins or fastens the fibers ofthe lip in place, and forms a point of resistance around which thethread is drawn, and toward which the upper is, or the upper and weltare, drawn.

The lip-holder is also beneficial in that it holds the lip and shoefirmly and steadily, both while the needle penetrates the lip and untilit draws the stitch taut.

In this invention I employ a curved awl to perforate the lip for thepassage of the needle, it also holding the lip, and moving laterallywith, and assisting and co-operating with, the channel-guide to feed theshoe, and it also assists in holding the lip and sole until the needleis about to enter the lip from the opposite side.

In this invention, the edge or welt guide has imparted to it a positivemotion away from the shoe after each stitch. The weltguide has usuallybeen mounted concentric-ally with the needle, and so as to cause thewelt t'o be borne at all times against the shoe with a yieldingpressure. Such plan is, however, objectionable, for when the shoe isilnperfectly lasted, or does not fit the last, the fullness of the upperis, by the action of the welt-guide rubbing against it, formed intoaplait or fold, which causes imperfect work. By giving the welt-guide aslight motion away from the shoe after each stitch, as herein providedfor, this difficulty is avoided.

Figure l represents, in front view, a machine embodying my invention.Fig. 2 is a side view from the left, showing the arrangement of the backgage and edge or welt-guide, with the devices for intermittently lockingthem, and the arrangement of the lip-holder, hereinafter described, tohold the lip of the solein its place, and Fig. 3 is a side view, fromthe right of the machine. Fig. 4 is a detail of the lip-holder. Fig. 5is a detail ofthe awl, and Figs. 6, 7, and 8 represent, side, end, andtop views of the Welt-guide.

This machine is usually mounted upon au iron column or stand, and isdriven by a foottreadle with connecting-rod and iiywheel, or bysteam-power, as preferred.

The base a ofthe machine has arms projecting upward on each side toreceive and support the pillar-posts b b, onthe upper ends of which arethe bearings for the driving-shaft c, upon which are mounted theactuating-cams of the machine.

Upon the central portion of the base, under the cams, is fitted anothercasting, of a snitable form to receive and support the principal leversand working parts of the machine. This casting is indicated by theletter d.

The curved needle l is mount-ed. in an oscillating needle-segment,guided in a guide w, and it is provided with a needle-guard, a', as inUnited States Patent No. 116,947, it being mounted upon the same center,and working concentrically with the needle. The curved In other words,the guide is moved backward at each stroke an equal distance from avariable base-line, which is represented by the stock, and it varying inthickness changes the base-line.

I do not intend to limit my invention in this respect to the exactmechanical devices to move the welt-guide in this way for such devicesmay be variously modified without departing from this invention.

The gage f presses at all times against the shoe with a yieldingpressure, except during the time that the needle pierces the work andtightens the stitch, when it is rigidly locked by the action of thedetent or pawl 13, which is caused to engage the teeth of the segmentallever 14, provided with a slot to receive a pin projecting from theshank of the gage f. rIhe pawl 13 is moved by the lever g, pivoted at b,and operated by a proper cam on shaft o, the lever being moved at propertime to permit the two pawls 13 30 to be operated by their springs tolock both gages when the needle penetrates the stock, and when thestitch is being drawn up. The pawl 30 engages a toothed block orportion, 31, upon e', to hold it forward positively. Spring 32 holds theguide c forward with a yielding pressure, and the spring 33 holds thegage f in the same way. rlhis guide e is so arranged that at the timethe stitch is being taken through the welt it is pressed firmly againstthe upper and sole, so as to relieve the needle of the strainwhich wouldbe required to draw these parts iirmly together.

The lip-holder maybe timed to enter the lip after the needle penetratesit, and then it will hold the lip as the stitch is completed.

In Fig. 6, the dotted lines w3 represent the welt, a way, 35, beingformed at the end of the welt-guide to receive the welt, and present itbetween the upper and the point of the needle.

In Fig. 3 I have shown a welt, x4, on one side of the shoe, the upperbeing upon the last.

The welt-guide has at its forward end the curved lip 36, for the passageof the needle. A channel or way, 35, for the reception of the welt, isformed by cutting the guide away, leaving a hook, 37, under which thewelt passes, the lower edge of the welt being overlapped and guided byan adjustable finger, 3S, held in position by a set-screw, 39. `Aspring, 40, connected with the finger 39, bears against the edge of thewelt, and holds it up in the way 35, behind the hook 37.

Having thus described my invention, I wish it understood that l do notconfine myself to the precise form of construction herein shown anddescribed, as the form may be very much changed without essentiallyaltering the principle of the machine; but

What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is as follows:

1. In a machine to sew turns or welts to uppers arid insoles, thccombination, with stitch-forming mechanism, of a lip-holder, topenetrate the lip of the sole transversely to the path of the awl orneedle, so as to hold the lip and sole in its place for the formation ofthe stitch, substantially as described.

2. The combination, with the welt-guide, of mechanism to impart to it anintermitting motion away from the shoe, substantially as and for thepurpose described.

3. The combination, with the welt-guide, of mechanism to move it awayfrom the shoe a uniform distance, irrespective of variations in thethickness of the upper, substantially as and for the purpose described.

4. In combination, the lever g, pawls 30 and 13, and a toothed block,and segmental lever 14, substantially as described, to lock and releaseth'e back or edge and welt guides, as set forth.

5. 'Ihe awl-carrying lever, in combination with the awl, pivotedthereto, substantially as described, to permit the point of the awl tobe elevated, substantially as shown and described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

CHRISTIAN DANCEL.

Witnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, L. El. Lumina.

